Almost home.

I knew when I woke up and saw Okie's water frozen in her dish we had to start sleeping in motels. Despite my father lending me a heater it is too cold for me to keep sleeping in my van now. My cooking fuel doesn't work under freezing temperatures (no making coffee in the morning) and the majority of campgrounds and state parks are closed for the season. It was time to give up the fight and fork out the cash.

Maybe I should have spent more time in the southern states but sometimes I just keep driving. I really do enjoy driving and I'm doing a lot of it. The last campground I stayed at was on the outskirts of Culpeper, Virginia and it was quite the place. It looked like most of the trailers there had been parked for a long time; a lot of permanent residents.  The maintenance man, Kevin, who is in charge of 16 acres all by himself (so he kept telling me) provided me with the space and lifted the rusty barrel off the power box so I could plug in. About a half hour later another burly man in a hunting jacket comes to collect my $25 and tells me if it gets too cold I can "come on up to the house and sleep on the couch". Southern hospitality hey?!

The first motel was Granny's Motel in Frackville, PA. I chose to sleep there because the statues on the outside caught my attention. In it's heyday I'm sure it was quite the place but it looks to me like it has been passed by the interstate, leaving it to fall into less than stellar condition. I like places like this though and it's cheap so it was our home for the night. You may not be able to tell but their eyes are quite vapid and the kid is holding a headless doll.

Tonight I am at a Motel 6 in Massachusetts somewhere. As I heat up my dinner of beans and rice I see my reflection in the mirror. I'm definitely looking a little worse for wear. I drove all day without taking enough breaks. Okie and I aren't as inspired to go for long walks as we used to be. She doesn't seem to like the cold any more than I do. Am I complaining? Maybe a little but I'm coming home for all great reasons and with a new goal. I'm excited about the way things are looking for the next four months. Plus, the closer I get the more excited I am to be seeing my friends and family. Let the next chapter begin.

Expenses.

While traveling I have been doing my best to keep track of how much I spend. I keep receipts for everything and record them in my day planner at the end of each day, with the exception of this month because I've been staying at my folks place. I wanted to give myself an idea of how much I spend on certain things, ie. food, gas, lodging, so that I can budget better in the future. So, I share this information in case anyone out there is thinking about embarking on this kind of adventure.

SEPTEMBER
Nova Scotia to Oklahoma

Accommodations: $133.18
Entertainment and Touristy Things: $69.71
Food and Drink: $449.55
Supplies and Maintenance: $439.37
Gas: $921.39

The first month on the road I stayed for free most nights so my accommodation costs were quite low. I spent 4 nights in Highland, NY when I had the concussion, 2 nights in Ardmore, PA at a friends, 3 nights in Maryland at a friends house, and 4 nights at other acquaintances I met while traveling. All for free or trade. Most other nights I parked on the side of the road or at truck stops. $300 of the supplies and maintenance went to a new battery and exhaust repair for my van.

OCTOBER
Oklahoma to California and back to Arizona

Okie (new expenses after adopting my dog): $235.00
Accommodations: $211.50
Entertainment and Touristy Things: $667.86
Food and Drink: $502.50
Supplies and Maintenance: $1377.71
Gas: $650.00

I spent more money on campgrounds the second month but it was also the month where I was given a free cabin at the Grand Canyon for 4 nights, stayed on BLM land outside Zion National Park and parked outside a friends place in Phoenix for a week.  My maintenance costs were the highest in October because I had to buy new tires at a cost of $750 and had some other work done to the tune of $450. Also, the entertainment category is quite high because I bought a season pass to National Parks  and treated myself to a new tattoo.

NOVEMBER
Arizona to Florida

Okie: $52.68
Accommodations: $135.04
Entertainment and Touristy Things: $221.50
Food and Drink: $373.48
Supplies and Maintenance: $117.39
Gas: $669.00

I started November off sick and still parked in Phoenix for 4 days. I spent 3 free days in Austin, TX and then 8 days couchsurfing  in New Orleans. I was also invited to stay at a friends in Panama City where I visited for 3 days and then headed down south to Florida where I am now.


Although I tried to be diligent and organized I can tell by the total spent over the three months I must have missed recording some expenses. It's off only by a couple hundred based on what I started with and what I have left in my bank account. The expenses recorded above equal $7236.86.  My goal now is to head back to Nova Scotia in February and exhibit some new work with hopes of financing my next adventure. Looking at my costs listed like this I'm sure I can do better, especially in the entertainment and accommodation categories. I will be heading out next time with more art work and a better plan for bartering.

This day made tears...in the best ways.

You ready for this?!

Yesterday morning I got ready to leave the motel and Bob, the man who checked me in, was cleaning the room next to mine. I gave him my key and thanked him for his hospitality. He asked me about my tattoos and my history/travel plans. We chatted for a while and he questions me about my cooking abilities and what I eat on the road. I told him I love to cook, have a stove, but haven't been eating as healthy as I would like. Unbeknown to me the plants surrounding the motel lot is his vegetable garden where he grows peppers, eggplant, beans of all types, garlic, ginger etc. He and his mother are vegetarians and eat mostly from what they grow. Bob lets me pick some eggplant and peppers. He is proud of what he has. His mother comes out and gives me more eggplant and picks some hot green peppers to go with them. Their generosity, as it turns out, comes from me taking an interest and simply talking to them. They are east Indian. He tells me sometimes people come in to the office, see him and turn around and leave. He said people 'don't mix' which he doesn't understand. “We all bleed the same don't we? Just because our skin is a different color, we are all still human" he says.  He points to me and then back to himself and his mother. She adds, “We're all the same. Human”. They shake my hand and wish me safe travels. I leave with teary eyed with my gifts wondering why people are they way they are. 

A couple hours down the road I passed a vegetable stand in someones barn. Seeing as I'm out of food and want to get more local produce I turn around. The first thing the woman says to me, before even saying hi, is, “Do you want a free dog?” This little thing comes running at me, tail wagging, but when I reach down to pet her she cowers and puts her paw up almost the way a person would if they were going to be struck. She wants to come to me but is shaking in her fur. I didn't get a good vibe from the bottle-blonde lady at all. She assured me the puppy had all her shots but couldn't produce any papers to prove it. I was not convinced at all. When I tried to pick her up she ran away, following the woman back into her place. So, I decided she wasn't for me. But I couldn't drive away. I got in my van and just sat there, engine idling. I thought to myself, why don't I go back and ask the woman if I can see if the puppy likes my van. She opened her door when I returned and I asked her. The response was, "I don't care what you do. She's probably hiding under the stairs”. So that was it. Game over. I grabbed her and drove away with the little one shaking on my lap. I mean, c'mon, could you have left this thing behind?

We drove for a long time before she stopped shaking. Being that it was Sunday I was pretty sure there wouldn't be a veterinary clinic open but I wanted to get her checked out as soon as possible. I checked for flees but that's all I really knew how to do.The next big town had one of those mega pet stores so I went in to at least get her some food. The behemoth of a store actually had a vet inside so $200+ later she came out in great health with her first shots and her rabies tag.

Some of you know, and some don't, that I adopted a beautiful black lab mix boy a couple months before I left. I don't want to get into the details about why he didn't end up staying with me but let's just say it was a heartbreaking experience. I thought about looking to adopt again but my half-assed attempts to find a new companion turned up nothing. Like I've said previously, I'm not the most spiritual person but to have this tiny, travel size girl show up is a bit of a mind-blower. I have friends who assured me I'd find a dog on my travels but I wasn't even sure if I wanted that to happen. For now I say, thanks again universe. For everything.

Buck up lil camper.

It just takes one moment to make you snap out of it.The aforementioned guy who brought me coffee had some very encouraging words when I stopped by to give him a thank-you postcard. Just as I was starting to turn into a whining windbag someone snapped me out of it without even knowing.

After my last post I drove to the centre of Claremont, OK,  I bought a large coffee and went antique shopping. I didn't buy anything but I hadn't really intended to. I then headed west expecting to meet up with the  Will Rogers Memorial Museum. I somehow didn't find it, instead I kept driving. A friend once told me if I get down to crank the music and sing. So I did just that. Before I could settle into driving I found an abandoned drive-in. I am a sucker for abandoned things I haven't photographed before and a drive-in is on that list. It did have a no trespassing sign but I couldn't resist. At one time it had a clam-shaped parking lot.

 

 

Oklahoma boasts the longest stretch of the original Route 66 remaining in the country. I would add it has more remaining neon signs then any state east of it.  I am happily pulling over every ten feet to snap a photograph.

I stopped to eat at Ollies Station Restaurant just outside (or maybe still in) Tulsa, OK. I ordered a chicken fried steak burger, onion rings and a Dr. Pepper.  I'm not a huge meat eater but I keep seeing it on the menu. The same thing with fried green tomatoes and I tried them so I decided I needed to try it too. I don't think I would order it again.

I brought a little book called Road Trip USA, Route 66 with me and it lists old motels still in business. They have been looked after and now they are part of the history. Or so I figured.

 I hatched a plan. I would stop at the next motel listed and photograph it and it's neon. Then I would offer to trade my postcards of their establishment, which I would make and print overnight, for a room. So, with a package of Arizona Neon postcards, a Barter Van magnet and my laptop ready to display the images I just took of the motel, I marched up to the office with a smile on my face and my "I'm confident but not threatening" stride. The majority of owners of these kinds of places live in their homes attached to the motel. Bob walks out and I start in about my proposition. To my astonishment he's not buying it. It was of no cost to him and there wasn't a single room rented!

With nothing to lose I start making small talk with him and he tells me he's looking after the place while his friend is in India for a couple of months. Bob lost his job at a mechanics shop recently and is having a hard time getting another one. Looking around the town of Stroud, OK, I can see why. It's mostly storefronts from what I can see. It's raining out and it's getting dark so I ask about the price of the room. It's $42+tx, something like $48.50, but he'll give me something for free. I don't want anything but a room so I thank him and start to gather my things. Bob speaks up and says what's the best I can do. I begin to explain my proposition again but he's clearly not the least interested in my cards. I offer to pay the price with no tax. He ups it $.50 and we make a deal.

I know I can't keep staying in hotels but I caved. Although last nights experience wasn't what I wanted, it still gave me time to work on my photos from the day. Since plopping my butt down in my room I have been editing photos and writing this post. All while eating junk food and watching ghost stories while it pours outside once again. I'm wondering now if I should have bought a crappy little car and stay in motels with the money I'd save on gas. I'm not done trying my bartering with motels idea though. I still think it could work.

What I've learned thus far, part 2...and my first blahs

I've learned that it's hard for me to receive help from people. Ok, I've always known that but with the situation I'm in and the Barter Van idea I have to swallow my pride. I have been looking after myself for so long I've taken on the attitude that I don't need anyone; I can do it all on my own. No man, or woman, is an island and no one gets through life simply relying on themselves. I am learning it's ok to accept help. I am also the type of person who would rather focus on other peoples problems rather than dealing with my own. Recently someone I met made a point of devoting the day to me and anything I want to do. I hadn't realized how hard that was for me to do. Maybe that's why I find it so comfortable to travel alone. That way I can do what I want and not feel guilty about the other person not fulfilling their desires. Then again, I can also be quite selfish. The good thing about being alone for long, and I mean long, periods of time on long stretches of road is I get ample amount of time to reflect on such topics.

Reality isn't so romantic. I dreamed about doing this for so long, especially Route 66, I hadn't realized how dismal parts of it truly are. Most of the time I drive through long stretches of flat farmland until I reach the next town. And when I say town I really mean a few buildings and closed up shops along with the one or two places doing their best to survive off the Routes lasting stigma. Other places don't even try to be part of it with only a couple houses remaining amongst the boarded up shops, motels and gas stations. I am at odds with being happy to find weathered old signs and coming upon the restored places. My creative side always likes finding the neglected but my nostalgia wants to see more restored places. I think my notions of the road trip remain romantic only in my head.

Kansas town restored because of Disney's movie Cars

Sign from motel turned apartment. Like so many along the route.

I remember people asking me why I want to do this and my response was always I want to know what it feels like to be free and see 'what I'm made of'. Reflecting on that, and being a month into my journey I don't think I know exactly what that means. It's true I am free of work and schedules but I still worry every day about my van breaking down and my money diminishing. I have chores and sometimes I think it's harder than when I was pampered with power and hot water at my fingertips. My ultimate goal is still elusive. Is it so I can say I did this? Is it so I don't regret not doing it when I'm old? Is it to return to Nova Scotia with a new body of work to have another exhibition? Is it to be free and see what the world has to offer? I answered yes to all of these questions before I left but the same questions linger...and more. I wonder if I am capable of going all the way across the US and back without succumbing to loneliness or fear of being stranded in the middle of nowhere. Luckily fear and doubt never last long with me and never stops me from doing what I started out to do. I know in the end if I was to quit now it would send me spiraling into a state of regret depression.

I share this now because I want to be completely frank about the ups and downs I experience. So many moments have been amazing and things do seem like they are falling into place but after spending two days driving without really meeting anyone I've become a bit tired and lonely. I decided to check into a motel, get beer and watch tv. I haven't zoned out in front of the tube in a month and it seems like a luxury now. The motel is gross but it was cheap and the woman at the desk was nice. I tried to barter with a few other old motels but there was no takers. I asked to pay a fraction of the cost of a room to just park in the motels lot for the night but was turned down. So many of these old motels have lost their luster and have become seedy places for people to live. I slept poorly thinking about my van and all of its contents. The one saving grace for this stop over, well maybe two, is the mind-numbing television and the guy I met at the car dealership next door. We only spoke for a moment when I went out to get beer and he immediately offered his help with anything I need. I invited him over for a drink but he worked late and had to decline. In the morning he showed up at my door with coffee before he had to return to work. And the kindness of strangers continues.

There are still many things that make me happy. Simple things like having just enough butane left to make coffee or seeing my first stick bug or armadillo. I don't want to leave this post on a bad note but thought it was important to tell the WHOLE story and not just the wonderful parts. Now, as I sit in McDonald's parking lot I am torn between moving on or staying to hang with my new acquaintance. It's always the decision to keep moving or to take an extra day. I am in the town of Will Rogers birthplace and maybe I should take time to visit the museum etc. I guess my next post will tell what I've decided.

Lastly, I want to thank people for taking this journey with me. I know even at the down times I'm not alone. I appreciate the encouragement more than you know and will adjust my attitude back to the free spirited, fun-loving, adventurous person I know I am.

Buckle in...this is a long one.

Sometimes I get to a point where there is so much to talk about I don't know where to begin so I just pick one thing that's on my mind. I'm at a point after this last week I feel I've missed mentioning so many amazing things and haven't given thanks to some of the people I have encountered.

Last week I had the pleasure of staying with Spencer Stewart and his mother in Maryland, PA. He was a wonderful tour guide due to the fact he has a lot of the same interests as I do. We made a trip to Washington, DC, where we toured some of the Smithsonian's museums and walked up to the Lincoln monument. All this in the rain while keeping good spirits and enjoying sights. Washington isn't what I would call a 'homey' city. It felt like no one lived there at all. We ate lunch at a little old diner where the man serving us decided to sit and have his lunch with us. I love that kind of thing. The next day it was off to Baltimore to visit the American Visionary Art Museum, which I would recommend to everyone if you are in the area. The gift shop there is a kitch-lovers dream. We met the owner and he gave me a 5-color screened sideshow poster ad for the store. My new favorite thing, displayed on my fridge.

American Visionary Art Museum, Baltimore

Then it was off to Ohio to stay with Matt, whom I met at Serpent Mound, in Cincinnati. First I visited the American Sign Museum. I made it an hour before they closed  and on my way out I saw a man restoring signs and made a comment to him. He turned out to be the owner of the place and gave me a private tour of all the signs yet to be restored. Before I left we traded a pack of my neon postcards for a museum t-shirt and they told me to stay in touch. They may be interested in selling my work there in the future.

American Sign Museum, Cincinnati

Leaving the museum I got turned around over and over again trying to find my way to Matt's house. I ended up on the highway out of town so I called to thank him for the invite but I would be continuing on. Once again I was back on a highway that actually led me back to his area. Clearly I was meant to stay so I called again and ended up at his place just in time to go out for dinner.

Now, this part of my journey is still being processed in my head. I am not what you would consider a spiritual person and have always based my beliefs in science. Matt is one of the most spiritual and generous people I have ever met and I made an effort to go out of my comfort zone and try to be open to his way of life. After an amazing day walking around Cincinnati he invited me to a friends place where they have a spiritual gathering every second week. There, his friends meditate and practice Oneness, giving blessings to each other through transference of energy by placing their hand on your head. (forgive me if I'm getting this wrong). I am still processing all of this but I will say it was a very warm inviting experience and I am proud of myself for putting aside my cynicism.

Terminal Museum, Cincinnati

I left my new friend and headed west on route 50. In Aurora I came upon a garage where the owner has been collecting old signs for over 30 years. He is very used to people wanting to photograph and was happy to let me loose with my camera. He and his brother shared stories about trying to cross the border and they wished me safe travels as I pulled away.

Garage, Aurora Ohio.

I drove straight across Indiana without even realizing it. That's the thing about driving across the US,  you cross the state borders in such a flash you don't even realize you're in a new one. In Salem, Illinois I stopped to take a photo of an old motel sign and it just so happened Terry, the owner, was showing someone a room. He approached me and was curious about what I am doing. After chatting about life and travel he offered me a room for the night and I gave him a package of postcards and a Barter Van magnet in exchange. I immediately went to the grocery store and bought ingredients for dinner since I could cook in a real kitchen! Not long after that the welcome wagon shows up at my door in the form of Brian. This old motel is now apartments and he thought I was moving in. I'm easily distracted and the night I planned to spend working on my photos turned into an evening drinking beer outside, watching the storm and shooting the shit with him. I'm always floored by the amount of information people share with me about their lives. He complimented me on my lack of judgement on people and I cherish that as someone who works really hard to give everyone the benefit of the doubt.

Motel Lakewood. Salem, Illinois

So, now I sit in my room and the storms continue to brew outside. I don't know who's looking out for me, or if I even believe in such things, but one has to pay attention and give thanks. I have read that when you truly follow your desires things fall into place. Well, I'm here to tell you there seems to be a lot of truth in that.