Expenses.

While traveling I have been doing my best to keep track of how much I spend. I keep receipts for everything and record them in my day planner at the end of each day, with the exception of this month because I've been staying at my folks place. I wanted to give myself an idea of how much I spend on certain things, ie. food, gas, lodging, so that I can budget better in the future. So, I share this information in case anyone out there is thinking about embarking on this kind of adventure.

SEPTEMBER
Nova Scotia to Oklahoma

Accommodations: $133.18
Entertainment and Touristy Things: $69.71
Food and Drink: $449.55
Supplies and Maintenance: $439.37
Gas: $921.39

The first month on the road I stayed for free most nights so my accommodation costs were quite low. I spent 4 nights in Highland, NY when I had the concussion, 2 nights in Ardmore, PA at a friends, 3 nights in Maryland at a friends house, and 4 nights at other acquaintances I met while traveling. All for free or trade. Most other nights I parked on the side of the road or at truck stops. $300 of the supplies and maintenance went to a new battery and exhaust repair for my van.

OCTOBER
Oklahoma to California and back to Arizona

Okie (new expenses after adopting my dog): $235.00
Accommodations: $211.50
Entertainment and Touristy Things: $667.86
Food and Drink: $502.50
Supplies and Maintenance: $1377.71
Gas: $650.00

I spent more money on campgrounds the second month but it was also the month where I was given a free cabin at the Grand Canyon for 4 nights, stayed on BLM land outside Zion National Park and parked outside a friends place in Phoenix for a week.  My maintenance costs were the highest in October because I had to buy new tires at a cost of $750 and had some other work done to the tune of $450. Also, the entertainment category is quite high because I bought a season pass to National Parks  and treated myself to a new tattoo.

NOVEMBER
Arizona to Florida

Okie: $52.68
Accommodations: $135.04
Entertainment and Touristy Things: $221.50
Food and Drink: $373.48
Supplies and Maintenance: $117.39
Gas: $669.00

I started November off sick and still parked in Phoenix for 4 days. I spent 3 free days in Austin, TX and then 8 days couchsurfing  in New Orleans. I was also invited to stay at a friends in Panama City where I visited for 3 days and then headed down south to Florida where I am now.


Although I tried to be diligent and organized I can tell by the total spent over the three months I must have missed recording some expenses. It's off only by a couple hundred based on what I started with and what I have left in my bank account. The expenses recorded above equal $7236.86.  My goal now is to head back to Nova Scotia in February and exhibit some new work with hopes of financing my next adventure. Looking at my costs listed like this I'm sure I can do better, especially in the entertainment and accommodation categories. I will be heading out next time with more art work and a better plan for bartering.

It's time to get down to business.

I've been at my folks place in Florida for a week now and have begun editing my photos and putting together new works to send home to Argyle Fine Art. I am feeling very fortunate to be at a place in my 'career' where I have a gallery willing to take my art. It really is a dream come true.

When I first arrived I tried to dive head first into making new work. I tend to put unnecessary pressure on myself, especially when people have already paid for pieces I haven't actually made yet.  Well, as you can probably imagine, I had a bit of a panic attack. I can't expect myself to go from being on the move every day for three months to immediately churning out new work. So after taking a couple of days to run some errands, eat oranges from the trees out back and easing into staying put I am now back on track. I am getting some commissions done and there will be new stuff at Argyle for the Pre-Shrunk show in January.

Spending time organizing the hundreds and hundreds of photos I've taken isn't all business though. The past three months have all blended together and sorting through my pictures brings back memories I've already forgotten. I have lots of time for reflection and in a month will be back on the road. Before I left I assumed many things. I pictured myself foraging through the woods for greens to eat, camping by rivers or lakes for weeks on end and making extra money washing dishes or doing odd jobs. I have done none of these things. The romanticizing I did about this journey is just that, romantic and unrealistic. The realities of traveling are completely different, for me at least. Yes, I'm sure I could have done all of these things but it's not who I am. I think part of anyone's success in life is knowing who you really are and not who you want to be. I'm not the kind of person who feels comfortable walking into a place and asking for work. Larry the hitchhiker is. He has taken many little jobs along his way to keep going and is perfectly comfortable doing so. He would approach people for rides or ask for help and was almost always met with kindness. I admire what he's doing but, as I said, it's not me.

I've had to discover who I truly am, accept it and work within it. I am not someone who is going to walk across the continent. I don't want to sleep in a tent in the woods for weeks on end or rely on knowing what's edible in the forest. I want my perked coffee in the morning and a hot meal at night. I like my small creature comforts. It's hard for me to admit I'm not as worldly as I like to think I am. I know it's all relative and some would disagree with me. I guess what I'm trying to say is I now know what my limits are and what I'm comfortable with, even if it's not what I thought before I set out. No matter how well you think you know yourself there's always more to know and spending three months on the road by yourself will surely bring some new things to light.

Part 2; swimming with manatees & drinking with carnies.

In the morning the hitchhiker and I wake early and make coffee. I perk my coffee in an old perk given to me by a friend. Larry usually lives off of instant so it’s a big treat for him. While I’m packing up the van he brings me the only thing he has that resembles a birthday cake, a strawberry newton,  and tells me to make a wish. This small gesture means more to me than he knows.

Packed up and ready to go, we head into the small town of Crystal River. A friend informed me about the opportunity of swimming with manatees there. The first place we find is way too expensive so I decided not to give myself that birthday present. Funny how things work out. I turned onto a side street to get us traveling back in the right direction and in front of me is another dive shop. I think, what the hell, I’ll check their prices. Right off the bat they were much nicer than the first place and so eager to have us join in. Their price was extremely reasonable so I sign us both up. Needless to say Larry is up for it.

By this point I’m literally jumping for joy and can’t wait to get my wetsuit on. Neither of us have ever done anything like this before. Once out in the water we are told to spread out and simply float on the surface, letting them come to us. Manatees are amazingly big and graceful animals. They are friendly and curious about us. I have no photographs to share of this experience but the memories and images in my head will never fade. I can tell you they feel like an elephant, with rough skin and bristles. Our guide made sure I had some quality time with one of them for my birthday. He called me over and showed me if you rub their belly they will roll on their back for you. I believe I also got a kiss from one. What a wonderful and peaceful way to start my birthday day.

From there we drive and drive further south down the coast. My folks asked me to pick up some Danish schnapps for our Christmas dinner at one of the towns along the way. I was having trouble finding the store so we pulled over at a Krispy Kreme to grab a coffee and ask for directions. At the liquor store I go for my wallet and it’s not there. It’s at Krispy Kreme, seven miles back!! Needless to say I am not impressed with myself. I had just taken out a bunch of money and not only that, I have everything I need in my wallet. Speeding back, Larry is convinced my wallet will still be sitting in the bathroom. He says, “someone as nice as you ought to have racked up enough good karma. It will be there.” And it was. All the money still in it.

For my birthday I wanted to be at a place called Gibsonton, otherwise known as Showtown America. It has a long history of being the vacation spot of carnival workers. I loved the idea of being in a small town with an interesting history to celebrate getting one year older. Gibtown looks just like any other nondescript small town along the highway except for this bar. Even if I hadn’t read about this place years ago I would have stopped to take photos. I won’t go into a lot of detail here about the history of the place but you can follow the link above or watch this video made by Seth Gadsden.

Painted to look like a half-door.	Another fake door. It's hard to find the real entrance.

Gibsonton has been described as a rough place, and maybe it is, but I can say we were welcomed with open arms. Ok maybe not right away but as we struck up conversations with Kim the bartender and Mr. Ozark, third generation owner of Showtown Bar, they became curious about us. Why were we there? Where were we from? Did we know the history of the town? It was fun to see the look on their faces when I told them I’m from Nova Scotia and this guy to my left is a hitchhiker I picked up the day before. Four beer in I hear the DJ announce, “This one goes out to the birthday girl, Angela, who turns 21 today!” 50 Cent, In Da Club (it’s your birthday) comes blaring out of the speakers.

I couldn't have asked for a better birthday on the road. I had a fun and interesting person to celebrate with and I was where I wanted to be. Before the night was over the owner of the bar took this shot of Larry and I. It's the only one I have of the two of us.

Next, saying goodbye to my new nomadic friend.
To be continued……..

Part 1; picking up a hitchhiker

I arrived in Florida on Sunday and made my way to Panama City to visit my friend Peggy, whom I met in Tucamcari, NM back in October. I stayed with her and her partner for a couple of days in a lovely little bayou village, relaxing and drinking wine. I was welcome to stay as long as I liked but my goal was to be in a certain place for my birthday, but more on that in a bit.

Okie and I got back on the road on Wednesday, heading down the west coast of Florida to eventually work my way east to my folks place. We had a fairly uneventful day of driving and ended it with a stay at the Holiday Campground just outside of Panacea. In the morning we took our time getting back on the road. About ten minutes after starting out on a long stretch of pavement with nothing on it but trees, I passed a guy walking wearing a big straw hat and lugging a very full backpack. He didn't stick out his thumb as I passed but he turned his head around in enough time to meet my eyes. Something struck me at that moment but I kept driving. The feeling lingered so a mile down the road I made the decision to turn around and see if he needed a lift. I know everyone is cringing at this moment and trust me, I NEVER thought I would even consider picking up a hitchhiker as a solo female traveler. Peggy and I had talked before about picking up hitchhikers along our travels and she had only done it once. It's something she doesn't regret and I can see it in her eyes when she tells the story. Her experience isn't what made me turn around though. After all, he wasn't technically hitchhiking since he didn't stick out his thumb for me.

I pulled over and called to him, "Do you need a lift?" He accepted and threw his pack in the back. Not for a second did I think my life was in danger or threatened in any way. It goes back to what I said about trusting your instincts. Something just told me to go get him and see what adventures ensue. It was the best decision I could have made. Don't get me wrong, I don't have plans to keep picking up vagabonds but I'm sure glad I invited this one along.

Larry Gust, or Shaggy to his friends, would be with me for the next three days. We both had the same route south planned.  He had been walking from Kansas with a destination of the Everglades where he wants to work for alligator tours or with reptiles in some capacity. He had been alone for two and a half days so he had lots to talk about. His stories regarding the kindness of strangers almost brought me to tears. I mean, I thought I had some amazing stories, and I do, but I am floored by what he has received from people. One example; He was walking on a country road in Missouri and came upon a woman gardening. She was curious as to why he was there and where he was going. They began to talk and before he could blink she was making him food, doing his laundry and offering him a shower. He left there with food in his pack and $20 in his pocket and this is not an isolated incident for him. Another time a man stopped to see where he was walking to and just so happened to be taking a load of army gear to donate. Larry ended up with a new pair of boots and a meal. These are just two examples from the many stories he told me.

The whole day was spent driving down the coast, stopping to go for walks and getting snacks. We were immediately connected and traveled with ease together. His infectious laugh and gift of gab was a welcome addition to my little hobo family. We traveled until dark and I offered to let him set up his tent at my RV spot. We toasted to us meeting with vodka-spiked Gatorade and went to our beds for the night. The next day would be my birthday and he agreed to spend it with me in Gibsonton, but more on that in the next post when I'll write about us swimming with manatees and drinking with carnies.

to be continued......

Larry and Gorilla. End of day one.

Trusting my gut and staying safe.

I get asked a lot if there have been times I've felt unsafe or threatened and I can honestly say I can count the times on one hand. In three months of travel I have accepted help from a lot of people and only turned down a couple. I  may have missed out on great opportunities by declining an offer but as the saying goes, I would rather be safe than sorry.

Friends have told me they don't know if they could be as trusting as I am but when you are traveling and living from moment to moment I think you may surprise yourself. The kindness of strangers is always surprising and my first instinct is often to back away and say no thanks. I have learned if I take a moment to listen to what I am being offered and watch body language I can tell if it's a threatening situation or not. Sometimes it's just a small doubt in the back of my mind that doesn't dissipate during the conversation. Like I said, I may judge wrong but so far I have trusted my gut and have had no problems whatsoever.

I think the first time I declined an offer for a shower and place to stay was from a Norwegian man I came across in Texola, Texas. We were heading to the same place and he already had a room booked there. He offered for me to meet up with him, have dinner and a shower. I did take his phone number but didn't contact him. I wasn't comfortable meeting someone at a hotel to take a shower. This seems like a no-brainer but honestly if I had a better vibe I would have gone. Most of me thought it would be harmless but that small voice disagreed. So, I didn't accept.

In Indiana, I was offered a room in a motel-turned-apartments. I stopped to take photos of the motel's neon sign and the owner just happened to be there. He struck up a conversation with me and I learned all about his family and how he came to own the motel. When he learned what I am doing he offered me a vacant room for the night. My caution voice was there then too but it was different. I have learned over the last three months the different levels of gut instincts. It's natural to be guarded with strangers. We have been told our whole lives to be careful of strangers, don't talk to strangers etc. so I think we are always a bit guarded. I have found there is a difference between my natural, ingrained defensiveness with strangers and the serious warning voice. It takes time to recognize the difference but my general rule is if the voice is accompanied by a gut feeling I decline and move on, possibly missing out on something but possibly avoiding a dangerous situation.

In Louisiana, I made a goal of photographing the abandoned Six Flags park in New Orleans. I drove around the park and scouted out where I could park that would be far enough away not to draw attention to it. I ended up leaving my van a lot farther away than I thought. I began walking and right away a car turned around with a young guy and girl and their dog in the back.  They came to ask if I had broken down and needed a ride somewhere. I immediately sized them up, looking around the car and studying their faces. I told them where I was heading and they offered me a ride. I took it. There was nothing out of the ordinary there and I felt no threat at all. On the way back to my van a guy in a beat up truck offered to drive me and I declined. I still don't know why I did but 'no thanks' came out of my mouth before I even thought about it. Sometimes it just happens that way and I don't question it.

Yesterday I decided to take a walk through the French Quarter during the day to take some photographs. Just as I crossed the street I saw two porta potties, but they were both locked. From out of nowhere a guy approaches me and wants to lead me to a hotel where I can use their bathrooms. I feel like he might be a hustler but there are so many people around I follow him. He tells me where I can find a free Thanksgiving dinner, free showers and free places to stay. He has only been in Nola for a few months and has learned the ropes. For the 3 minutes I am walking with him I am studying his face, the road names and all the shops around me. I have my hand on my purse the entire time as well. When he points to the hotel I thank him for his help and walk in the direction of the door. As I approach I can see there are door men holding the door for people and the car pulling up, filled with people who are checking in, looks pretty normal. I was thinking he was leading me to something sketchy and it actually turned out to be a nice place and a much needed pee break. I'm not saying he's not a hustler though. I met him later in the streets and he said, 'Where are you going? I'm trying to hook up with you". I simply responded with a very stern NO and he politely left me alone.

I would never suggest there aren't bad people out there but I am saying that it would be a great thing if we all just let our guard down a little and trusted more. Learning to trust your voice of caution and studying your surroundings is the best defense you have. Not being afraid to be forceful with language is another thing I've learned. Who cares if I offend some person I will never see again if it keeps me safe. I love people and my trip would be nothing without the interactions with them. In the end, they need to trust me as well. The people who have taken me into their homes or made dinner for me don't know me from Adam either so they are also taking a risk.  Thank heavens they take a chance on me because they have helped shape this journey more than they know.

What the hell is hashing?

If you aren't familiar with couchsurfing, it's a website where people offer to host travelers. I decided to give it a try when I knew I was going to be in New Orleans. I thought it would be a great way to see the city from a locals perspective and it would be much safer than trying to find a place to park on the streets. I'm really glad I did.

Pat answered my request and I have been parked in his backyard since Friday. Having Okie made it a bit harder to find a host and even Pat can't have animals in his place but that's the advantage to having my bed on wheels. I don't need to sleep in the house but now I have access to power and showers again, as well as having someone who is really fun to show me around.

On Saturday he asked if I want to go hashing with him. I had no idea what that was but am almost always up for something new. It sounds really silly when it is described but I'll give it a go anyway. A group of people get together and race through a trail trying to catch the hare; a person designated to run from the pack. Beer is a big part of the whole event, with one stop in the middle of it to break and drink beer. People can drink anywhere in Louisiana, in fact if you have a beer in a bar and want to go somewhere else before it's finished there's a guy at the door to give you a "to-go cup" so you can take it with you. No glass is allowed on the streets.

This particular hash took place in a swamp. It was muddy, full of thorns and swampland and ridiculously fun. These people are absolutely nuts and incredibly nice. Once everyone is out of the trail a circle of individuals is formed where people are called into the middle for various 'offenses' and are ordered to do a 'down-down'. A cup of beer is filled and you have to drink the whole thing at once. Whatever you can't drink goes over your head. Being my first hash I was the virgin. I was nervous about what they might make me do but I think they took it easy on me. Then there's food and a bonfire. Not all of the hashes are like this. Some of them take place in the city and don't involve camping, fires or fireworks like this one did. I've been told they are usually much more tame than this one was so I'm awfully glad my first one was the craziest group.

I have met so many great people here in such a short time and can hardly keep up with any of them! I think I'll stay for a little while longer. There are many abandoned places for me to photograph and I'm in a safe and welcoming place so why wouldn't I take advantage of this time? My life is pretty great right now!

The more I see the more things look the same.

The more I drive the more each town looks alike. I don’t necessarily mean the old centers of town but the surrounding areas. Each town or city is surrounded by the same big box stores all over America. They are all familiar as I see them taking over the outskirts of my home town as well. Home Depot, Walmart and all the common fast food places like McDonald’s, Subway and Burger King are the familiar facades I see every day and they are always busy. The marked “Historic Downtowns” are often quiet with few shops open. In Truth or Consequences, NM, I walked the quiet streets looking at all the vacant storefronts and saw very few people. This is pretty common in my experience. Drive a bit outside of the downtown and there are all the people in their vehicles, loading up on what they “need” from the big department stores.

I don’t go into cities very often, preferring to stay in the countryside and in small towns where I hope to get a more ‘authentic’ feel for the place. It’s a struggle when I’m in a city like New Orleans, where I will be later today, to find the less touristy places. In an attempt to experience the real Nola (what locals call New Orleans) I have found a host through Couchsurfing. It’s my first time using this site but I have heard many good things about it. The guy who has agreed to let me park in his carport is a thrift store junkie like me and he has offered to take me yard-saling tomorrow. I’m not against doing the touristy things and will be sure to see the French Quarter and take in some of the common sights but I also want to get behind the scenes a little.

In the same vein I wanted very badly to go on a swamp tour, a very touristy thing indeed. I called ‘A Cajun Swamp Man’ whom I got a pamphlet for at the tourist bureau. He wasn’t going out that day and gave me the number for Jimmy. I just happened to pull into the restaurant he launches the tour from and was lucky to be about 20 minutes early. I’m really glad it turned out the way it did because he was not only cheaper but had a much smaller boat with only seven people going. Turns out the other tour holds up to 40 people! I, of course, was the only person there traveling alone. I encounter this all the time and have learned to accept people asking where the other part of my party is. In fact, when I called they booked me in for two people.

The tour lasted about 2.5 hours and was a mere $15. Jimmy was a great guide and told us stories of his parents hunting and trapping snakes and gators for a living in the 1950s. They used very simple tools. They would go out in a flat bottomed canoe and he used a long pole to find the gators on the bottom. When he found one he’d poke and prod at it until it was angry enough to come to the surface at which time she would kill it by a hatchet to the head. Back then they were only killed for their hides so if it was too big to put in the boat they’d skin it there and throw the rest back. And if that wasn’t dangerous enough she also hunted snakes with her bare hands!

Although it isn’t alligator season we did manage to witness two of them sunning themselves by the banks of the swamp. We also saw many turtle and an amazing array of birds. I didn't quite see what I imagined I would and am going to continue looking for other swamp tours. I was hoping to get deeper in and see the huge trees growing out of the water. Still, it was a great way to spend the afternoon.

 I ended the day with a big bowl of chicken and sausage gumbo at the Bayou Delight restaurant. I asked the waitress if she knew a place I could park for the night and she suggested a little spot down the road. I was worried I'd get asked to move but I didn't. I slept by a river under some hanging moss trees. It was a lovely spot.

What do I want?

Before I left home someone asked me what I hoped to get from this trip. At the time I think I said I wanted freedom and the time to be creative; to see what I'm made of.

After spending the night at the Big Thicket RV Park Okie and I went for a three hour walk in the Big Thicket National Preserve just north of Beaumont, Texas. I had been driving all day from Austin and really wanted a place to cook supper, have a shower and fall asleep. I found a pamphlet at the tourist bureau for this RV Park and decided to head for it, seeing as it would be close to our walk the next day. Well, this is one for the books. I found the place and as I drove in I noticed a lot of barbed wire around the office building, which was really their house. A small sign saying office lead me up the stairs to the front door. Arlene greeted me and I couldn't help but ask, why all the barbed wire? She said it was all forest there when they were building their house and people were stealing their supplies so they put up the fence. Then, in almost the same breath, she said it was there when they got there. I didn't press matters any further. I was too tired, hungry and dirty to care. She told me the showers haven't been open for a while so she'd have to open it for me. She very kindly swept the bugs out of the shower stall and I supplied my own toilet paper. What can I say? I live in a van, I have low standards!

Office surrounded by barbed wire.

 So, back to our morning walk. There was only one other car there when I arrived and I didn't run into the driver and his dog until we were on our way back to the van. We had three blissful hours to ourselves in the woods. It was so quiet. The morning air was chilly but it warmed up over the day. I absolutely LOVE going for walks/hikes with Okie off-leash. It makes for a much better time for both of us. She stays with me, either walking ahead or falling behind but always waiting or catching up. She stops when I do and waits for me to take my photos before continuing on.

Looking forward to seeing a swamp but the water left.

Okie waits for me to take photos.

I can't even express how happy that makes me. Recognizing that, I started to think about what else makes me happy. Would this give me the answer to what I want to get out of this?

So, number one is easy. I am happiest walking in the woods/trail with Okie, coffee in hand and camera on shoulder. I am happiest when I have the space and time to work on my art. I am happiest when I am traveling. I am happiest when I feel like I'm actively participating in my life instead of following routine and being a slave to my alarm clock. When I have finished this journey, if I finish, I want to be sure of what I want next. If I look at the happiest places in my mind I can see myself in a small house in the country, but close to a city, with a studio space, a couple of dogs and lots of nature to walk in. Oh, and the ability to travel when I need to find inspiration. Sounds ideal doesn't it?

If there's one thing I've learned it's that I can make things happen if I want them bad enough. There's nothing wrong with setting my sights on another goal (when I'm ready) that seems completely out of my reach. I didn't always believe I could pull this off but working towards it and making it reality has been a major accomplishment in my life. Hard work, sacrifice and patience is all I need.

How's the bartering going?

When I was planning on setting out on this journey I did a lot of reading and researching on how people make money to keep on traveling. It is a necessary evil if you want to travel full time. Money runs out and I knew I would have to think about the practicalities of continuing on at some point.

Much of what I read talked about using your skills and interests to generate income. Being an art school grad my skills are all creative-based so I have to work with that. This is when I came up with the bartering idea. It was my intention to trade my art and photography skills for things I need, like food, showers, power hook-ups etc. It was quite naive and probably a bit egotistical of me to think the things I make or do are of value to other people, especially with the economy being the way it is. Apart from me leaving gifts for people who have let me stay with them, business owners and such need to feed their families and pay their bills, not get a postcard or a piece of art from a traveler wandering through.

I have had a few successful trades with people though, including a package of my postcards for a t-shirt from the American Sign Museum and another package for a room for the night in an old motel turned apartments. I attempted once to barter with a route 66 motel, photographing the place and then offering to make postcards for them to sell. I thought it would be a great way to have the luxury of a room every now and then while getting some of my work out there. Although the caretaker of the motel and I became friends, he wasn't interested in my proposal and we ended up talking more about the fact he had just lost his job and how tough times are. I think that was the moment I realized my naivete.

Another part of the problem with this idea is my shyness when selling my craft. Most artists, and this definitely includes me, are terrible at self-promotion. I hadn't thought through the idea of how to approach people or even what I was going to approach them with. Yes, I take photographs but not really ever of people so what was I planning on doing for them? I am someone who doesn't always think things through and tend to fly by the seat of my pants, with a logical head of course.

So, I am at a point where I need to re-evaluate the bartering idea or come up with another plan altogether. I'm not disheartened by any of this but reality is different than what I dreamed up before I hit the road. Suggestions are welcome.

Onwards and upwards!

Buck up lil camper.

It just takes one moment to make you snap out of it.The aforementioned guy who brought me coffee had some very encouraging words when I stopped by to give him a thank-you postcard. Just as I was starting to turn into a whining windbag someone snapped me out of it without even knowing.

After my last post I drove to the centre of Claremont, OK,  I bought a large coffee and went antique shopping. I didn't buy anything but I hadn't really intended to. I then headed west expecting to meet up with the  Will Rogers Memorial Museum. I somehow didn't find it, instead I kept driving. A friend once told me if I get down to crank the music and sing. So I did just that. Before I could settle into driving I found an abandoned drive-in. I am a sucker for abandoned things I haven't photographed before and a drive-in is on that list. It did have a no trespassing sign but I couldn't resist. At one time it had a clam-shaped parking lot.

 

 

Oklahoma boasts the longest stretch of the original Route 66 remaining in the country. I would add it has more remaining neon signs then any state east of it.  I am happily pulling over every ten feet to snap a photograph.

I stopped to eat at Ollies Station Restaurant just outside (or maybe still in) Tulsa, OK. I ordered a chicken fried steak burger, onion rings and a Dr. Pepper.  I'm not a huge meat eater but I keep seeing it on the menu. The same thing with fried green tomatoes and I tried them so I decided I needed to try it too. I don't think I would order it again.

I brought a little book called Road Trip USA, Route 66 with me and it lists old motels still in business. They have been looked after and now they are part of the history. Or so I figured.

 I hatched a plan. I would stop at the next motel listed and photograph it and it's neon. Then I would offer to trade my postcards of their establishment, which I would make and print overnight, for a room. So, with a package of Arizona Neon postcards, a Barter Van magnet and my laptop ready to display the images I just took of the motel, I marched up to the office with a smile on my face and my "I'm confident but not threatening" stride. The majority of owners of these kinds of places live in their homes attached to the motel. Bob walks out and I start in about my proposition. To my astonishment he's not buying it. It was of no cost to him and there wasn't a single room rented!

With nothing to lose I start making small talk with him and he tells me he's looking after the place while his friend is in India for a couple of months. Bob lost his job at a mechanics shop recently and is having a hard time getting another one. Looking around the town of Stroud, OK, I can see why. It's mostly storefronts from what I can see. It's raining out and it's getting dark so I ask about the price of the room. It's $42+tx, something like $48.50, but he'll give me something for free. I don't want anything but a room so I thank him and start to gather my things. Bob speaks up and says what's the best I can do. I begin to explain my proposition again but he's clearly not the least interested in my cards. I offer to pay the price with no tax. He ups it $.50 and we make a deal.

I know I can't keep staying in hotels but I caved. Although last nights experience wasn't what I wanted, it still gave me time to work on my photos from the day. Since plopping my butt down in my room I have been editing photos and writing this post. All while eating junk food and watching ghost stories while it pours outside once again. I'm wondering now if I should have bought a crappy little car and stay in motels with the money I'd save on gas. I'm not done trying my bartering with motels idea though. I still think it could work.

Buckle in...this is a long one.

Sometimes I get to a point where there is so much to talk about I don't know where to begin so I just pick one thing that's on my mind. I'm at a point after this last week I feel I've missed mentioning so many amazing things and haven't given thanks to some of the people I have encountered.

Last week I had the pleasure of staying with Spencer Stewart and his mother in Maryland, PA. He was a wonderful tour guide due to the fact he has a lot of the same interests as I do. We made a trip to Washington, DC, where we toured some of the Smithsonian's museums and walked up to the Lincoln monument. All this in the rain while keeping good spirits and enjoying sights. Washington isn't what I would call a 'homey' city. It felt like no one lived there at all. We ate lunch at a little old diner where the man serving us decided to sit and have his lunch with us. I love that kind of thing. The next day it was off to Baltimore to visit the American Visionary Art Museum, which I would recommend to everyone if you are in the area. The gift shop there is a kitch-lovers dream. We met the owner and he gave me a 5-color screened sideshow poster ad for the store. My new favorite thing, displayed on my fridge.

American Visionary Art Museum, Baltimore

Then it was off to Ohio to stay with Matt, whom I met at Serpent Mound, in Cincinnati. First I visited the American Sign Museum. I made it an hour before they closed  and on my way out I saw a man restoring signs and made a comment to him. He turned out to be the owner of the place and gave me a private tour of all the signs yet to be restored. Before I left we traded a pack of my neon postcards for a museum t-shirt and they told me to stay in touch. They may be interested in selling my work there in the future.

American Sign Museum, Cincinnati

Leaving the museum I got turned around over and over again trying to find my way to Matt's house. I ended up on the highway out of town so I called to thank him for the invite but I would be continuing on. Once again I was back on a highway that actually led me back to his area. Clearly I was meant to stay so I called again and ended up at his place just in time to go out for dinner.

Now, this part of my journey is still being processed in my head. I am not what you would consider a spiritual person and have always based my beliefs in science. Matt is one of the most spiritual and generous people I have ever met and I made an effort to go out of my comfort zone and try to be open to his way of life. After an amazing day walking around Cincinnati he invited me to a friends place where they have a spiritual gathering every second week. There, his friends meditate and practice Oneness, giving blessings to each other through transference of energy by placing their hand on your head. (forgive me if I'm getting this wrong). I am still processing all of this but I will say it was a very warm inviting experience and I am proud of myself for putting aside my cynicism.

Terminal Museum, Cincinnati

I left my new friend and headed west on route 50. In Aurora I came upon a garage where the owner has been collecting old signs for over 30 years. He is very used to people wanting to photograph and was happy to let me loose with my camera. He and his brother shared stories about trying to cross the border and they wished me safe travels as I pulled away.

Garage, Aurora Ohio.

I drove straight across Indiana without even realizing it. That's the thing about driving across the US,  you cross the state borders in such a flash you don't even realize you're in a new one. In Salem, Illinois I stopped to take a photo of an old motel sign and it just so happened Terry, the owner, was showing someone a room. He approached me and was curious about what I am doing. After chatting about life and travel he offered me a room for the night and I gave him a package of postcards and a Barter Van magnet in exchange. I immediately went to the grocery store and bought ingredients for dinner since I could cook in a real kitchen! Not long after that the welcome wagon shows up at my door in the form of Brian. This old motel is now apartments and he thought I was moving in. I'm easily distracted and the night I planned to spend working on my photos turned into an evening drinking beer outside, watching the storm and shooting the shit with him. I'm always floored by the amount of information people share with me about their lives. He complimented me on my lack of judgement on people and I cherish that as someone who works really hard to give everyone the benefit of the doubt.

Motel Lakewood. Salem, Illinois

So, now I sit in my room and the storms continue to brew outside. I don't know who's looking out for me, or if I even believe in such things, but one has to pay attention and give thanks. I have read that when you truly follow your desires things fall into place. Well, I'm here to tell you there seems to be a lot of truth in that.

What I've learned thus far.

It's almost three weeks since I departed on this crazy journey of mine and there's no shortage of things to learn and adapt to when living in a van full time.

My transition from tiny bachelor apartment to van dwelling wasn't such a big deal. My daily routine stays the same; get up, make coffee and while it perks clean house. Living in such a small space, and being slightly OCD when it comes to organization, makes me have have to keep a tidy abode. There really is no way around that. Plus, if I am ever to be stopped by the police it just looks better.

My toilet is in both my kitchen and my bedroom and that takes some getting used to. I didn't think I would use it that much but I do enjoy not having to go outside in the dark scariness to relieve myself. I have also discovered it's important to remember to empty the campa potti every few days or there's a strange smell of cured meats in my house. (most of you are wincing right now and I don't blame you, but these are the gritty facts)

Without power my fridge is an ice box so I need to buy a bag of ice every day. If I forget the water melts and severe turns cause the water to come pouring out all over the place. This goes for everything else too. Every single item has to be tied down or wedged in or things go flying. Just this morning I took a quick turn and my fridge opened, sending cheese, sandwich meat and potatoes flying. It's a bit of a distraction when you're driving.

Obviously showering, or not showering, is a constant concern. I'm ok with a few days of bird bathing in gas stations or fast food joints but after a while a hot shower is definitely needed. I have been lucky in the last week to have the luxury of staying with people and showering on a regular basis. Back on the road and one day later I'm already missing that which we all take for granted.

Lastly, where to sleep for the night is a concern every time I see the sun disappearing on the horizon. I have pulled over in front of a little cemetery, in broad view in parking lots and sometimes right on the side of the road. Last night was the only time I had a problem. In West Virginia I was feeling rather crappy due to a cold and felt I shouldn't drive any further. I pulled over on the side of the secondary highway I was on and crawled into bed. It was only 8:30pm so I knew I would be up early and back on the road, hopefully feeling less coldish. After about 10 minutes a car pulled over behind me, stayed for a minute then left. A few minutes later a truck pulled over in front of me, then turned around and pulled in back, stayed there for a minute, and left.

It was the first time this kind of thing happened and I got spooked so I drove to the next town. I parked on the road between a lawyers office and the police station thinking it would be safe. Two seconds later another car pulls in behind me and there is a flashlight in my face. You know the saying, "they are as afraid of you as you are of them"? Turns out that's the case here. People were checking me out because I'm a stranger here and called the police. The kind policeman told me people are suspicious because with the way the economy is they want to hang on to whatever they have left. Apparently there is a big problem with stealing in the little town of Ritchie County. He allowed me to park in the police station's lot for the night. When I left in the morning I swear I was followed by a black truck until I was out of town.

Now, I head out towards Ohio with a golf ball sized hole in my exhaust. Hopefully I can find a mechanic who is willing to let me trade for the fix. Let the learning and exploring continue!

Generosity and inspiration in Ardmore, PA

Sometimes you meet people and just their aura is inspiring. Todd and Kristin Kimmell invited me to their beautiful 1895 house in Ardmore, PA. They have to be two of the kindest people I have ever had the pleasure to meet. I mean, just LOOK at them! I showed up in their town with very short notice and they still welcomed me. The family had plans that evening so off they went leaving me, a relative stranger, alone in their house for hours. If this isn't trust I don't know what is. I set myself up with my laptop in the corner of their kitchen and didn't move for fear of lighting the place on fire.

In the morning I was called in for coffee and breakfast and given the abbreviated history of Philadelphia. I always enjoy listening to charismatic, smart people and Todd is definitely one of them. In return for their kindness I left them with a piece I made on copper which they seemed to genuinely like. I am flattered to have it in their home amongst all the amazing work they have surrounded themselves with.

Todd has a studio in the basement of a Masonic hall which includes a 100 year old bowling alley. And yes, I did get to throw a ball down the lane...I scored 8.

Todd is the creator of The Grand Review, which he describes as "a remarkable collection of delightful yet obscure historic imagery from private and public collections....Rediscovered, then rethought and reworked, we present these carefully chosen images back to the public as handsomely crafted large format prints." His studio is enough too make a person drool. I wanted to walk away with many of the prints and regret I didn't, however, I know where to find them when I'm settled again.

I am only two weeks into my adventure and can honestly say I am delighted with the people I am meeting. It is giving me lots to think about when it comes to what I want to do in the grand scheme of things. For now, onward ho!

Face hits pavement.

Unfortunately, my journey has just hit an abrupt stop. My computer had a virus yesterday so I took it to a computer guy. Ended up having a beer with him and his friends at their place. I got up to use the toilet and must have fainted...HARD! I have never had that happen before but I ended up in the hospital, cat scans and everything else were fine. I broke my nose and have a concussion. I am now being taken great care of by Paul (the computer guy) and am going to stay off the road for a few days. I'm not awake for long periods of time but there's nothing to worry about. I am feeling better all the time. I have great adventures to blog about but you'll have to say tuned.......